Monday, February 16, 2009

The Guitar Town

Well, sometimes we just have to get out of town, so we decided to head southwest to the state of Michoacan. We headed to Patzcuaro and stayed there a couple of days over the weekend, sorry we didn't get any photos,
beautiful place though.

Nearby is the famous town of Paracho, the guitar town...Paracho is known for its guitars, many people think this is where the best guitars in the world are made. This is not exactly the case, while some of the best guitars come out of Paracho, the majority are "chafa"(junk), but a little searching will lead you to some excellent luthiers and guitars, not to mention mandolins, fiddles, stand-up bases, guitarrones (the big mexican bass), bajo sextos (12 string guitar) and many other stringed instruments.


The town itself is small, about 16,000 folks, I think, locoated up in the highlands of Michoacan. The main drag is wall-to-wall guitar shops, most of which are family businesses, and the amount of guitars, mostly classical, is impressive.





We wandered the streets and talked to lots of guitar makers and played lots of guitars. It was awesome to see all the different woods and styles of guitars and to talk to all the makers and hear their stories.



I really wasn't looking to buy a guitar, so I told myself I would have to find something really special if I was gong to buy it. I looked at alot of crappy guitars, some of which appeared to be made of pine and old pressed together newspapers; I looked at some really nice ones, but they just didn't do it for me...then we found Jose Luis Diaz Reyes, and wow!



Jose's place is pictured here, this is the front of his shop, the actual workshop is located through the door in the back, although it is actually smaller than the shop.










He pulled a couple guitars out of his cases and we plunked around
a bit, and WOW...the tones, the feel, the craftsmanship...man I was hooked!









We toured his workshop and he filled us in on how he takes raw wood and transforms it into a true work of art. He has been building guitars here for 57 years, taught by his grandpa, a violin maker. The inlay work to the left was designed and made by Jose and talk about intricate!

He builds every part of the guitar at his place and by hand, all from raw stock. To the left you will see 2
guitar necks in process, the mandolin is actually from Missouri, but had a crack, so he is fixng it for guy. To the right is the material for a bridge, a finished bridge and the knife he uses to carve it, that's right, carved by hand with just that knife, damn!



This is his workbench, but esssentially it is his whole workshop, it all happens here. Notice there are no powertools, just old school handtools here baby!





He gave me a go with one of his planes, and let me tell you he made it look way to easy. He got a laugh at me trying to work this piece wood. He told us how he needed to be in a good frame of mind when he was working or the guitars just wouldn't turn out as well. One bad part makes the whole guitar sound funky. He said you had to treat the guitar like you would a woman, treat her right and you will get good sounds, treat her bad and you get a nasty tone...sounds about right ot me.

In addition to the classical style guitars, he also made mandolins, violins, and steel string guitars, boht 6 and 12 stringed. He pulled this beauty out of the back, not his design he said, but he liked the one he saw and wanted to try to make one...I think he did it! Notice the bridge, or lack there of. (click on the pic for a better view)
Well, after a great afternoon talking and playing, I left with this beauty, and it is a work of art and plays and sounds like a dream. Don Jose, usted es un maestro!





Friday, January 9, 2009

Palenque

We finally got our chance to go see the ruins of Palenque. Even though when we left Chiapas we swore we would never go back but we really wanted to see Palenque so we made the trip down. Actually it took about the same amount oftime to get there from 3 states north as it would have from Acapetahua - tells you something about Chiapas roads, hey?


Howler monkeys and ruins - it was worth it...



some ancient myan carvings










Some pyramids you can enter but they are really narrow.



Taxco (Tass-Ko), Guerrero

During Christmas we were given some time off since he office was closed during the holidays. Well we are not ones to skip an opportunity, to we headed out to some of the places we wanted to see or had been recommended to us by friends.
Taxco is about 3 hours from Mexico City in the State of Guerrero. Its a very charming colonial city, and like many colonial cities they paint all the buildings the same colors. Taxco is famous for its silver and there are lots of artists that live there and make silver jewlery.



The big church in town, where all the action is.

The interior of the church had walls covered in statues and gold leaf. Speaking personally, I think the baby faces are a little creepy...



We hiked up to an overlook ofthe city and got lost in its small passageways and tiny streets. We found several shrines along the way...

Trav overlooking Taxco

Taxco from above.

The Jesus statue that looks over the town

A couple of pictures from home

Our kitchen
Travis and our sassy kitty Lola. this is what he does when he thinks no one is looking....


El Platanal

Mountains ofthe Sierra Gorda Guanajuato


Further into the reserve is the community of El Platanal, recognized as one of the most marginalized community in Mexico. They have only had electricty for 3 years! To get to El Platanal we had go up and over these mountains on the dirt road in the top righthand corner of this picture.
We then had to drive several more hours along a river bed to reach El Platanal ecotourism site. Just as we were beginning to think "Is this worth it...?" We arrived.

And it was totally worth it. The Community of El Platanal has a large cabin available for rent and are building two smaller cabins. They also offer camping on the beach of the river. To get to El Platanal you can hire a guide and a burro to hike your stuff into the canyon.

Here I am with Chava, cool guy and all around good friend, we work with him. He is known as "Lenny Kravitz of the Sierra". Must be the hair.

Making friends with the locals.

Vergel

Vergel
Razorbacks in the Sierra Gorda Guanajuato (Gwan-na-hwa-toe). Can't you just picture Clint Eastwood cruising down one of these?

Wow It has been a while since we posted anything. We have been settled in to our new place for 3 months and things couln't be better. We work for the coolest office in CONANP and for the coolest boss, probably coolest in the world. We are having a great time out here in cowboy country and working on some really great projects.
One of our main projects is working with the monitoring department to create habitat for and protect a species of Axolotls (Ah-ho-lo-til) which is a special species of salamander. we are currently in the process of identifying the species. Once identified, we will rebuild its habitat and create an informal education program on site to teach people aboutthe importance of conserving species.
Another project we are working on is helping the small, marginalized communities promote and enhance their ecotourism activities. Many of the peopel who have tourism operations ahve never left their area. We have one project in a community of about 200 peopel called Vergel (Ver-hell). Which is lead by a very charasmatic Dona Lupe. Who is actually divorced and living with her new boyfriend (divorce in small-town Mexico is virtually unheard of and a good way to become a pariah - and her ex-husband has to get food from her store - the only one in town!)
Here we are following Harold on one of the guided hikes offered by the community. He pointed out several medicinal plants all of which are good for your kidneys. Actually almost every medicinal plant I have found, when made into a tea is good for your kidneys. My theory is that when you drink a lot of tea, its the water that benefits you more than the tea actually does.
We wound our way through the forest and came up into a passageway in the rocks onto a rock outcropping called "La Ventana" (the window).





Another guded hike offered by Vergel is to the "Puente de Dios" (The Bridge of God). a really spectactular rock formation.